Great! We offer conversions of chlorine pools into natural swim pools. The concrete shell already exists which is helpful. The old liner and fixtures are removed. The perimeter wall can be lowered a bit to accommodate new planting margins beyond the existing pool. None of the old pipework or pumps will be needed, which means reduced annual maintenance costs as well.

Yes! This system works in a variety of sizes ranging from a plunge pool to a decent swimming pool with say an 11×4m swim zone or a bit bigger. Anything bigger than that is also possible.

Generally no, but we’ll advise you based on your location and site plan.

If you are in an AONB then you do need planning permission for any project. If you are digging a new pool in your garden curtilage then it is usually fine, but paperwork still needs to be done. If you are digging in a field then there are other matters to consider.

If you are not in an AONB then permission is usually not needed.

For converting an existing swimming pool permission shouldn’t be needed.

We can discuss your situation, and apply for planning permission for you. We would quote for that service in our proposal letter.

A typical 11×4m swim zone (swimming pool size) with 3m margins starts around £50k +vat for a new dig, or £40k +vat for a swimming pool conversion.

Plunge pools would cost less, and lakes would cost more. This will be clearer after a consultation.

Planning permission takes 8 weeks once submitted, but during that period everything else can be arranged to be ready to start.

The design process can take a few weeks.

The build process could be as quick as 4 weeks. Again this will be clearer after consultation, and indicated in our proposal letter.

Seasons do have an impact too. Spring and Autumn are good windows to build, so start thinking a good few months before that.

We all love deer, especially the fawns. However they are partial to eating your plants, even in ponds.

They will pick at new planting, but there are ways to protect your margins until planting is established.

Eventually they evolve into useful maintenance crew once the margins are more mature.

We give guidance during the design stage around natural methods to deter them.

Yes. Clear water like this is healthy, and we would say more healthy than chemical pools.

Peoples concerns are often about e-coli and blue green algae. These respectively come from animal faeces or stagnant water, none of which should factor here.

Our maintenance sheet will list DIY or Lab based tests that you can also undertake for peace of mind.

Ducks, geese and fish are often tempted or attracted by lovely clean water, but we must discourage them. The key to clear water is minimal phosphate and nitrate levels. These come from organic matter, animal matter and surface water run off. The job of the plants is to absorb these, but if levels are too high that is when algae comes along to do the job for us.

We want to minimise algae and so we want to minimise nutrient inputs.

Further guidance will be given.

Leaves are not a huge problem, though like all organic matter it is good to manage them.

Most leaves are in fact blown in across the ground, and so border planting or low fences can help.

A healthy ecosystem will mostly manage.

Our maintenance guide will give a bit more detail.

Compared to a swimming pool maintenance is different. There is no complex winter shut down, no chemical tests or chemical refills.

With clear water most organic waste will be processed by sunlight and healthy biology.

Some removal of leaves with a net is always a good idea. An annual trim and removal of dead plant matter is also a good idea.

Further information will be given in our maintenance sheet.

The air bubble system that we use costs about £30/year to run. It is usually only needed 6-7 months of the year as well.

Chemical swimming pools require annual electricity costs for the pumps, and maintenance of filters, drain down and winter closure etc.

In this system, annual organic matter maintenance can be done by yourselves as satisfying DIY or it can be offered as a quick visit from us.

Rainwater is always best.

For the initial fill, you could use tap water (if there are resources) but it has a high nitrate content and so there will be some blanket weed developing for the first few months, which is nature’s way of cleaning the nutrient imbalance.

A balanced nutrient deficient pond will then have mostly clear water since the plants do the work of nutrient absorption.

For topping up, you could use tap water (same issues), or we can set up a diversion from the house roof, via collecting butts or chambers.

This water can be fed in passively, or collected and pumped in to suit.